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New
Cookbooks...Delicious!
by Laurie
Woolever |
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What makes a good cookbook? At the very least, the recipes should be
clear, concise, and produce consistently good results when followed by
a reasonably competent home cook. With a few exceptions, this is true
of almost all of the thousands of cookbooks published each year.
Other factors to set apart the adequate and the worthy might include
appetizing imagery, entertaining and educational text, or the name of
a well-known chef you've admired from afar.
Among this season's new offerings are books that, while wildly disparate
in their subject matter, are united in the hitting of all their marks,
with extra points for originality, grace, and charm. Here's a sampling
-- read, and enjoy!
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Gale
Gand's Just a Bite: 125 Luscious Little Desserts
by Gale
Gand and Julia
Moskin
Beyond its appeal to sweet-toothed dieters, miniature fetishists, and
fans of Gand's television show, "Sweet Dreams," this joyous little book
will appeal to anyone seeking smart, useful advice about baking and the
pastry arts in general. Gand guides readers through creating one- or two-bite
desserts that are equally at home at the end of a four-star meal or a
child's birthday party. In between recipes for diminutive treats such
as Tangerine Marmalade Babycakes, Banana Brulee Spoonfuls, Pansy Petal
Lollipops, and Ice Cream Mini-Cones, readers can find some of the fundamentals
of working with sweet ingredients and specialized pastry equipment. As
a nod to Americans' ever-intensifying love affair with cheese, there is
also a section devoted to cheese-based desserts, both sweet and savory,
with some useful cheese basics. Tim Turner's gorgeous photographs add
further incentive to try your hand at any of the tiny delights in this
book.
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Cakewalk:
Adventures in Sugar with Margaret Braun
by Margaret
Braun
Margaret Braun does things you've never seen with sugar and pastry, so
it's fitting that this, her first book, should also break the mold. Much
has been written about her confections, which are fantastical, multi-tiered
sculptures gilded in silver and gold, or hand-painted to look like anything
from linoleum to patent leather to the faces of her own parents. It is
the reader's distinct privilege, then, to get the back story on Braun's
creative process. She draws inspiration from disparate sources; one cake
recalls the flower-shaped decals that kept her from slipping in the tub
as a child, while another recreates the yellow-and-white palace of Frederick
the Great, the former King of Prussia. In explaining her motivations,
she gives us an intensely personal, often-humorous look into the life
of a working artist whose medium happens to be sugar. And, for those who
wish to recreate her cakes, or do a little sugar sculpture of their own
devising, there are clear, concise instructions on creating motifs, working
with specialized ingredients like sugar paste, marzipan and edible gold
leaf, and sculpting cakes -- as well as several good recipes for cakes,
icings and fillings. Quentin Bacon's photographs, supplemented with Braun's
drawings and selected images from the art that has inspired her, give
Cakewalk legitimacy as both a practical book about cakes and a beautiful
book about art.
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Jim
Coleman's Flavors
by Jim
Coleman
Billed as
a companion to Chef Coleman's public television series, Jim Coleman's
Flavors stands on its own as a well-rounded collection of recipes that
draw on America's diverse culinary riches. Relentlessly (and rightly)
touted as being a "nice guy," Coleman comes across in print and on television
like the ideal cooking teacher, a guy who might laugh and pour you a cold
one if you accidentally burned the roux. His everyman accessibility comes
across in the recipes, which are homey, succinct, and accompanied by plenty
of informative sidebars, for those seeking a little background on everything
from lettuce to Madiera. Rather than being a hodgepodge of "authentic"
ethnic dishes that call for a list of imported ingredients, Flavors presents
modified versions that can be prepared largely from an American pantry,
such as a lamb curry devised by Coleman's Irish-American sous chef, or
an Irish stew that substitutes beef for mutton. Some readers may find
the last section, "Basic Recipes and Techniques," a bit skimpy, as it
contains a mere five entries, but in working through the book, you'll
realize that there's little need for supplementary reading -- your Nice
Guy instructor has provided everything you need in the main text.
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Cuisines
of India: The Art and Tradition of Regional Indian Cooking
by Smita
Chandra and Sanjeev
Chandra
Smita Chandra, in her third book on the topic, has managed to create a work
that is more than a cookbook. Destined to be used a reference for everything
from specialized ingredients to the rich history of the Indian subcontinent,
Cuisines of India transcends classification in the overcrowded ethnic genre.
Through a combination of personal stories (a transplanted northerner, she
grew up in the southern state of Kerala), ancient and modern maps and drawings,
and well-researched historical reportage, Chandra elegantly conveys a truth
that many American cooks and food enthusiasts may not yet realize. "When
I teach Indian cooking," she states in the introduction, "I like to begin
by explaining to my students that 'Indian' food is a very broad description
of a wide variety of regional cuisines." A reader would do well to cook
her way through the entire book, region by region, mastering the variations
in spicing, technique, and ingredients that have earned the cooking of India
the right to be classified as a cuisine. |
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Moosewood
Restaurant New Classics
by The
Moosewood Collective
(editors)
This is the ninth offering from the Moosewood Collective, a group of 19
people who, in addition to authoring books of creative, accessible vegetarian
fare, have also owned and operated Moosewood Restaurant in Ithaca, NY,
since its opening in 1973. Their latest book of all-new recipes will holds
equal promise for newcomers and the collective's longtime fans, who should
appreciate the use of new ingredients and techniques that reflect the
new, more sophisticated face of vegetarianism. Have no fear, though, that
the Moosewood team might have lost its crunch -- the recipes and accompanying
text are as friendly, homey, and downright democratic as ever, with crystal-clear
directions and lots of helpful notes and indices. The extensive breakfast
& brunch, soup, drinks & snacks, and dessert sections should nicely appease
even those readers who can't fathom a meal without a big hunk of meat
-- and may even create a few converts.
read
an excerpt!
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